A quality suit represents a significant investment, and with proper care, it can serve you well for many years. The difference between a suit that looks tired after a year and one that remains sharp after a decade often comes down to maintenance habits. This guide covers everything you need to know about keeping your suits in peak condition.
Daily Care Habits
The most effective suit care happens daily, not just during occasional deep cleans. Developing good habits after each wear prevents damage accumulation and reduces the need for aggressive cleaning.
After Every Wear
When you remove your suit at the end of the day, resist the urge to hang it immediately in your wardrobe. Instead, drape the jacket over a chair back and the trousers over a valet stand or hanger rail. Let them air out for at least an hour to allow body heat and moisture to dissipate. This simple step prevents odours from setting into the fabric and helps the material recover its shape.
Empty all pockets completely. Leaving items in pockets—even small things like receipts or coins—creates stress on the fabric and can distort the jacket's shape over time. This is particularly important for interior pockets, which sit close to the body.
Quick Refresh Technique
After airing your suit, give it a quick once-over with a soft clothes brush. Brush downward with the grain of the fabric to remove dust, lint, and any debris picked up during the day. This takes thirty seconds and dramatically extends the time between professional cleanings.
Rotation is Essential
Never wear the same suit two days in a row. Wool and other natural fibres need time to recover from being worn. The fibres stretch and absorb moisture during wear, and they need at least 24 hours—preferably 48—to fully recover their shape and dry completely. If you wear suits regularly, aim to have at least three to four in your rotation.
Proper Storage
How you store your suits significantly impacts their longevity. Poor storage is one of the fastest ways to ruin an otherwise well-maintained garment.
Choosing the Right Hanger
Wire hangers from dry cleaners are your suit's enemy. They are too thin to support the jacket's weight properly and can create shoulder dimples that are difficult to remove. Invest in proper wooden or padded hangers with wide, curved shoulders that match the natural shape of your jacket. The hanger should end right where your shoulder does—extending into the sleeve causes stretching.
For trousers, use hangers with clips that grip the hem, allowing the trousers to hang upside down. The weight of the waistband helps gravity pull out wrinkles naturally. Alternatively, use a hanger with a trouser bar, folding the trousers over it with care to avoid a permanent crease in the wrong place.
The cost of quality hangers is negligible compared to the cost of replacing suits damaged by poor storage. Invest in proper hangers for every suit you own—it is one of the highest-return investments in garment care.
Wardrobe Conditions
Suits need room to breathe. Cramming too many garments into a small space causes fabrics to press against each other, creating wrinkles and preventing air circulation. Allow at least two to three centimetres between each hanging garment.
Keep your wardrobe in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight. Prolonged sun exposure fades fabric, particularly in darker colours. Humidity encourages mould growth and can cause musty odours that are difficult to remove. In humid climates, consider using a small dehumidifier or moisture-absorbing products in your wardrobe.
Long-Term Storage
If storing suits for extended periods, use breathable garment bags made of cotton or canvas—never plastic. Plastic traps moisture and prevents the fabric from breathing, potentially causing mildew growth. Ensure suits are clean before storage, as stains can set permanently over time.
Cleaning Your Suits
One of the most common misconceptions about suit care is that frequent dry cleaning is necessary. In reality, dry cleaning involves harsh chemicals that gradually break down fibres and shorten your suit's lifespan.
When to Dry Clean
Reserve dry cleaning for situations that genuinely require it: visible stains you cannot remove yourself, significant odours that do not dissipate with airing, or after a full season of regular wear. For most men wearing suits in office environments, this means dry cleaning each suit two to four times per year at most.
Dry Cleaning Caution
Always choose a reputable dry cleaner who specialises in suits and fine garments. Low-quality dry cleaners may use excessive heat or pressure that damages construction. Ask about their cleaning solvents—modern, gentler options like liquid silicone are preferable to traditional perchloroethylene.
Spot Cleaning at Home
Minor stains can often be addressed at home without involving the whole garment in the dry cleaning process. Act quickly—fresh stains are always easier to remove than set ones. Blot, never rub, as rubbing spreads the stain and can damage fibres.
For water-soluble stains like coffee or juice, gently blot with a clean cloth dampened with cold water. For oil-based stains, apply a small amount of talcum powder to absorb the oil, let it sit for several hours, then brush away. For persistent stains, take the garment to a professional rather than risking damage with aggressive home treatment.
Steam Cleaning
A handheld garment steamer is one of the most valuable tools for suit maintenance. Steam relaxes fibres, releasing wrinkles without the pressure and potential shine that ironing can cause. Steam also helps refresh fabric between dry cleanings by killing odour-causing bacteria.
When steaming, hold the steamer a few centimetres from the fabric and move slowly downward. Work in sections, allowing each area to dry before moving on. Be particularly careful with lapels and structured areas—too much moisture can affect the canvas interfacing inside the jacket.
Dealing with Common Issues
Wrinkles and Creases
Light wrinkles from daily wear often hang out overnight. For more stubborn creases, steam is your best tool. Alternatively, hang the suit in a bathroom while you shower—the ambient steam helps relax the fabric. Avoid ironing directly on suit fabric; if you must iron, use a pressing cloth between the iron and the garment, and keep the heat low.
Shiny Patches
Shine develops when fabric fibres are flattened, usually from sitting, pressing, or friction. Light shine can be reduced by steaming the affected area and gently brushing against the grain to lift the fibres. Severe shine is difficult to reverse and may indicate the fabric is nearing the end of its life.
Moth Prevention
Moths are attracted to natural fibres and can cause devastating damage to wool suits. Prevention is far easier than treatment. Use cedar blocks or rings in your wardrobe—the natural oils repel moths. Alternatively, lavender sachets serve a similar purpose while adding a pleasant scent. Ensure suits are clean before storage, as moths are particularly attracted to food residue and body oils.
Seasonal Transition
When rotating your wardrobe between seasons, inspect each suit carefully before storage. Address any stains, replace any missing buttons, and note any repairs needed. This ensures your suits are ready to wear when the season returns.
Professional Maintenance
Establish a relationship with a trusted tailor who can handle not just alterations but ongoing maintenance. Annual check-ups can identify issues like loose buttons, worn linings, or seams that need reinforcement before they become visible problems. A good tailor can often extend a suit's life by years with minor, inexpensive repairs.
Consider professional pressing before important events. A skilled presser uses specialised equipment that creates sharp creases and smooth surfaces without the risk of shine or damage that home ironing carries.
With consistent care and attention, a well-made suit can look excellent for a decade or more. The time invested in proper maintenance is minimal compared to the cost and hassle of premature replacement. Treat your suits well, and they will serve you well in return.