Understanding what a tailor can and cannot change is essential knowledge for anyone buying suits off the rack. This knowledge prevents costly mistakes—purchasing a suit with unfixable fit issues—and helps you evaluate whether a suit's potential justifies its price once alteration costs are factored in. Not all alterations are created equal: some are simple and inexpensive, others are complex and costly, and a few are essentially impossible.
Easy Alterations: What Tailors Do Daily
These alterations are straightforward, relatively inexpensive, and virtually any competent tailor can perform them. When shopping, you can confidently buy a suit knowing these adjustments are readily available.
Trouser Hemming
Adjusting trouser length is the most common alteration. Trousers can be shortened easily and lengthened if there is enough fabric in the existing hem. Most trousers have at least 3-4 centimetres of extra fabric folded inside, allowing for modest lengthening if needed.
Cost in Australia: typically $15-30, or often included free with suit purchase.
Trouser Waist Adjustment
Tailors can take in or let out the waist of trousers, usually by about 2-4 centimetres in either direction. Larger adjustments become problematic because they affect the position of pockets and other details. If a suit's trousers are significantly too large or small in the waist, that suit is not right for you.
Cost: $25-50 depending on complexity.
Sleeve Shortening
Jacket sleeves can be shortened from the cuff end—this is a simple alteration that most tailors perform regularly. The standard is for approximately 1-1.5 centimetres of shirt cuff to show below the jacket sleeve.
Cost: $40-70 per sleeve for standard shortening.
Functional Buttonholes
If the jacket has functional buttonholes on the sleeves (buttons that actually unbutton), shortening becomes more complex and expensive because it must be done from the shoulder. Check this before purchasing if you anticipate needing sleeve shortening.
Taking in the Body
A jacket that is slightly too loose through the torso can be taken in through the back and side seams. This creates a more tailored silhouette. Taking in small amounts—up to 2-3 centimetres total—is straightforward. Larger reductions start affecting the jacket's overall proportions and balance.
Cost: $50-100 depending on how much needs adjustment.
Moderate Alterations: Possible but Significant
These alterations are achievable but require more skill, cost more, and have limitations. Consider whether a suit requiring these changes is worth the investment.
Sleeve Lengthening
Sleeves can be lengthened, but only if there is extra fabric inside the current cuff. Most quality suits include at least 2 centimetres of extra material, allowing for modest lengthening. Beyond that, or if the extra fabric is not present, lengthening is not possible.
Cost: $60-100 per sleeve.
Jacket Length Adjustment
Shortening a jacket is possible but involves re-attaching the bottom button and potentially adjusting the vent. The maximum practical shortening is usually 2-3 centimetres before proportions start to look wrong. Lengthening a jacket is essentially impossible—there is no extra fabric to work with.
Cost: $80-150 depending on vent style.
Letting Out the Body
If a jacket is too tight, it can be let out—but only if there is extra fabric in the seams. Quality suits often include a centimetre or two of extra fabric at the side seams for this purpose. Fast-fashion suits often do not. Even with extra fabric, letting out significantly changes the jacket's lines and may look obviously altered.
Cost: $60-100.
The rule of thumb: tailors can more easily take garments in than let them out. If buying between two sizes, choose the larger one that can be taken in rather than the smaller one you hope to let out.
Difficult Alterations: Expensive and Limited
These alterations push the boundaries of what is practical. They require expert tailors, cost significantly, and may not produce perfect results. Generally, if a suit needs these alterations, you should probably find a different suit.
Shoulder Width Adjustment
The shoulders are the most critical part of jacket fit and the most difficult to alter. Narrowing shoulders requires opening the jacket at the shoulder seam, removing fabric, and reconstructing the sleeve head and shoulder padding—essentially rebuilding a significant portion of the jacket. Even then, results may be imperfect.
Cost: $150-300+ per shoulder, and many tailors will refuse the work.
Widening shoulders is even more problematic and generally considered impossible without adding fabric that will not match.
Critical Point
The shoulders must fit correctly when you buy a jacket. If the shoulder seam does not sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, or if the fabric pulls, bunches, or divots at the shoulder, that jacket is not for you—regardless of how good the rest looks.
Changing Lapel Width
Lapel width is a style detail that cannot be easily changed. Narrowing lapels requires opening the jacket front and resewing it, affecting the collar roll, button position, and overall balance. Widening lapels is impossible—there is no extra fabric. If the lapel width looks wrong to you, find a different jacket.
Adjusting Armhole Size
Armholes that are too large (causing excess fabric under the arms) or too small (restricting movement) are problematic. Reducing armhole size is possible but expensive and affects jacket balance. Enlarging armholes is essentially impossible without compromising the jacket's structure.
Essentially Impossible Alterations
Some things simply cannot be changed through alterations, no matter how skilled the tailor or how much you are willing to pay.
Jacket Structure and Silhouette
The fundamental shape of a jacket—whether it has a strong shoulder, natural shoulder, or padded shoulder; whether it is fitted or boxy—is built into its construction. You cannot take a box-cut suit and alter it into a slim, fitted suit. The underlying canvas, padding, and proportional relationships are fixed.
Pocket Position
Pocket placement is set during construction. Moving pockets would leave visible marks from the original stitching and affect the jacket's appearance. If pocket position bothers you, find a different jacket.
Collar and Lapel Shape
The collar roll, lapel gorge height, and overall collar-lapel relationship are fundamental design elements that cannot be changed. These details define a jacket's character and visual style.
Smart Shopping Using This Knowledge
Armed with understanding of alterations, here is how to shop more effectively:
- Prioritise shoulder fit: Try different brands until you find one where the shoulders fit correctly without alteration.
- Accept minor compromises elsewhere: Slightly long sleeves, a loose waist, or too-long trousers are all easily fixed.
- Factor in alteration costs: A $400 suit plus $150 in alterations may be better value than a $500 suit needing $200 in work—or a $550 suit needing none.
- Walk away from major issues: No matter how much you love a jacket's fabric or colour, if the shoulders do not fit or the style is wrong, it is not the right jacket for you.
Working with Your Tailor
Build a relationship with a good tailor. Ask questions during fittings—experienced tailors are often happy to explain what they are doing and why. Their expertise becomes your knowledge for future purchases.
Understanding alterations transforms how you shop for suits. Rather than hoping everything will work out, you can make informed decisions about what is fixable, what is not, and whether any given suit is worth your investment. This knowledge saves money, prevents disappointment, and leads to a wardrobe of suits that truly fit.