Beginner's Guide to Buying Your First Suit

Buying your first suit is a significant moment. Whether you need one for a job interview, a wedding, a graduation, or simply because you have reached a point in life where a suit feels necessary, the process can seem overwhelming. This guide breaks down everything you need to know into manageable steps, ensuring you make a purchase you will be proud of for years to come.

Setting Your Budget

Before you step into any store, establish a realistic budget. This helps narrow your options and prevents you from either overspending on features you do not need or underspending on a suit that will disappoint.

In Australia, suit prices generally fall into several tiers. Entry-level suits from fast-fashion retailers and department stores range from $150 to $300. These work for occasional wear but may show their quality limitations after repeated use. Mid-range suits from quality retailers typically cost $400 to $800 and offer substantially better construction, fabrics, and longevity. Premium and made-to-measure options start around $800 and can extend to several thousand dollars for bespoke tailoring.

Remember to budget for alterations, which typically add $50 to $150 depending on what is needed. A shirt, tie, and appropriate shoes if you do not already own them will also add to your total investment.

Understanding Suit Construction

Knowing basic construction terms helps you evaluate quality and understand what you are paying for.

Canvas vs Fused

Inside a suit jacket, between the outer fabric and the lining, is an interlining that gives the jacket its shape. In fused suits, this interlining is glued directly to the outer fabric. This is less expensive to manufacture but can cause bubbling or delamination over time, especially with dry cleaning.

Canvas suits use a floating layer of horsehair or synthetic canvas that is stitched rather than glued. This drapes more naturally, moulds to your body over time, and lasts significantly longer. Full-canvas construction extends through the entire front of the jacket, while half-canvas covers only the chest and lapel area.

Lapel Styles

Lapels are the folded flaps on either side of your jacket's front opening. The two main styles are notch lapels, which have a triangular notch where the collar meets the lapel, and peak lapels, where the lapel points upward toward the shoulders. Notch lapels are more common and versatile, suitable for business and most occasions. Peak lapels are more formal and traditionally seen on tuxedos and double-breasted jackets.

Button Configurations

Single-breasted suits with two buttons are the most versatile choice. Always fasten the top button and leave the bottom undone—this is not a preference, it is a rule. Three-button suits were popular in the 1990s but have since become less common. Double-breasted suits offer a more distinctive look but are less versatile for a first suit.

Choosing the Right Fit

Fit is the single most important factor in how a suit looks on you. An inexpensive suit that fits well will always look better than an expensive suit that fits poorly.

Jacket Fit Essentials

The shoulder seam should end exactly where your shoulder does—not drooping down your arm or pulling up toward your neck. This is critical because shoulders are the hardest and most expensive part of a jacket to alter. Get this right when you buy.

The jacket should button comfortably without pulling or creating an X-shaped strain pattern at the button. When buttoned, you should be able to slip a flat hand between the jacket and your shirt, but not a fist. The jacket length should cover your rear and reach approximately to your knuckles when your arms hang naturally.

Trouser Fit

Trousers should sit at your natural waist without a belt pulling them up or sliding down. Modern cuts often sit slightly lower. The key is that they are comfortable and stay in place. Through the seat and thigh, you want enough room to sit and move without straining the fabric, but not so much that fabric billows.

Trouser length should create a slight break—a small fold of fabric where the trouser meets your shoe. Modern trends favour less break, with the trouser just touching the shoe. Avoid both extremes: puddling fabric at your ankles looks sloppy, while trousers that show your socks when standing appear too short.

Selecting Colour and Fabric

First Suit Colour

For maximum versatility, choose navy blue or charcoal grey. Both work for job interviews, weddings, business meetings, and formal occasions. Navy is slightly more approachable and flattering for most skin tones. Charcoal is slightly more conservative and works marginally better in very formal corporate environments.

Avoid black for your first suit despite its seemingly universal appeal. Black suits are actually quite limited—too formal for most business settings, too severe for daytime events, and often read as something worn to funerals or by service staff.

Fabric Considerations

Wool is the ideal suit fabric. It breathes well, drapes beautifully, and is naturally wrinkle-resistant. For Australian conditions, look for tropical or lightweight wool weights that handle warm weather while remaining appropriate year-round for air-conditioned offices.

Wool blends with synthetic fibres can offer durability and stretch at lower price points but may not breathe as well. Pure synthetic suits should generally be avoided—they often look cheap and become uncomfortable in warm conditions.

The Shopping Process

Where to Shop

Department stores like Myer and David Jones offer wide selections across multiple brands and price points, making them good places to try different styles. Dedicated menswear retailers often provide better service and expertise. Online shopping offers convenience but requires confidence in your measurements and the retailer's return policy.

What to Bring

Wear or bring the dress shirt and shoes you plan to pair with your suit. This ensures proper sleeve length and trouser hem measurements. Wear fitted underwear rather than boxers, as this affects trouser fit. Bring patience—finding the right suit takes time.

Questions to Ask

• What is the fabric composition?
• Is the construction fused, half-canvas, or full-canvas?
• Are alterations included in the price?
• What is the return policy if alterations are unsatisfactory?
• When will alterations be completed?

After the Purchase

Once you have found your suit, schedule alterations immediately. Most retailers offer in-house tailoring or can recommend nearby tailors. Be specific about what you want—bring pictures if helpful. A good tailor will also advise on what adjustments will improve the fit.

Invest in proper care from day one. A quality wooden hanger maintains the jacket's shape. Brush the suit after each wear and allow it to rest between wears. Learn the basics of spot cleaning to handle minor issues without rushing to the dry cleaner.